Thursday, March 7, 2024

Basic tools for those breaking into the industry

Tools to Get Started

Depending on the specific facility you end up at, you may need more or less than what is explained. Some places will give you a basic tools list themselves that are required. Others may not even allow you to bring anything in, instead opting to provide you with a personalized set that stays on property. I like to ask during an initial interview if there is a tool list for the property. If they provide tools, make sure you know how to request for additional or specialty tools. You'll inevitably end up in a situation where you're missing just that one thing that would cut job time in half. Knowing how to get them is vital. That being said, here's a brief list of some basics that should provide useful.



Screwdrivers
    • Slotted(Flathead), Phillips, Torx
      • There is no standard size or shape of fastener but these will always show up, pretty much everywhere.
      • Having a variety of these in different sizes will enable you to open most things that are screw driven and adjust most sensors, valves, springs amount other equipment.
      • In the beginning I recommend getting a least a multibit screwdriver, though they have their downsides, it will save you money till you can afford a complete set.
Screwdrivers
  • Wrenches
    • Standard SAE and Metric, Adjustable, Socket, Allen/Hex
      • Many parts require a wrench of combination of wrenches and drivers to be worked on.
      • A combination wrench which has one box end and one open end is ideal.
      • Adjustable wrenches can be handy but be careful, a loose fitting wrench can round a nut or bolt head, making it tough for a new mechanic to free the fastener.
      • 2 adjustable wrenches can usually be 'good enough' to start till you can afford a proper set. Take care when using, as noted above
      • A good socket wrench set will last long enough to give to your grandkids after a full career of your own. That said, they can be one of your largest investments and can be put off on being bought at first. Most shops will have a few sets, or may even assign one to you.
    • Allen wrenches, also known as hex wrenches come in metric and SAE. 
      • You will need both. Dog bones are the type that pop out of a single handle similar to a Swiss army knife, they are useful but limited use. A set of individuals would suit you better in the long run. T-handle are also available, and almost mandatory to use on shafts or a seized set screw. Save that investment for later. The shop likely has a set.

Wrenches
  • Hammers
    • Claw, Ball Peen, Dead Blow, Multihead Mallet
      • Hammers are always useful to 'persuade' a part or machine to go where it needs to go or do what it needs to do. That said, not all hammers are created equal.
      • You could likely get away with only a claw hammer in most work places. It can act as a striking and prying tool as you may be familiar.
      • That said, if you enjoy beating things, get the right tool for the job.
      • Ball peen hammers are typically heavier and better for applying more force. The rounded side is also useful for shaping metal.
      • Dead blow hammers are a rubber or plastic hammer with metal pellets inside. The have the advantage of being able to send a shocking blow while being a soft material so as not to damage what you are striking.
      • Multihead mallets like the name suggests have a number of different heads that can be swapped out. Usually various hardness plastics which each work better on slightly different materials.
  • Pliers
    • Tongue and groove(channellocks), needlenose, side cutters
      • Tonque and groove pliers, known by most by the popular brand name Channellock. Having a small and medium size pair of these will be useful in most situations than can be named. They hold materials very well, can be adjusted to size of anything within in jaws maximum opening, can be used in place of many specialty plumbing tools, great for getting a seized up part to rotate again. 
      • Needlenose pliers are almost always the go to tool when something small is in a small place, you've dropped something at an odd angle, bending metal finely.
      • Side cutters, as their name implies are for cutting. Great for snipping cables and wires. Depending on the size you have, you will be surprised how thick of material they can truly chew through.
      • You really should invest in these 3 pliers before other types. Not everyone is going to need things like nippers, snub nose, or any other specialty pliers. But these ones will find use in every work place.
  • Strippers
    • Wire strippers
      • Find a style you like. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Klein makes great ones in various styles and sizes. 
      • I recommend finding out what typical wire sizes are at the jobsite before purchase.
      • From experience the strippers I used when running wires for dwellings, were similar to the pliers I used on machine power circuits, but vastly different in size from what I used for sensor and data wires.
      • That said, I do not typically recommend automatic wire strippers as they are bulking and awkward to carry around. The big exception to this, is someone who is doing a large amount of cabling for machines or prefabbing in large numbers. The reason being is in those situations, you'll likely be in a single spot working on a single wire size and length and each piece can be quickly cut and terminated as without much thought. Typically in the field, it's never that cut and dry.


Wire Strippers
  • Measuring tools
    • Multimeters
      • Most entry level techs will only need a single meter. A multimeter is a combination of ohm meter, voltmeter, amp meter, capacitance meter, continuity checker.
      • One with a clamp for measuring current will be your best bet for most situations, but if your budget doesn't allow it initially, pick up a cheap one with the most functions possible from whatever tool store you shop at.
    • Tape measure
      • A 25' tape measure should last you years. Whatever brand you get, just make sure you can read it properly. Some have all the fractions written out on them, others only have whole numbers with the smaller fractions represented with different sized lines between digits.
  • Power tools
      • Whilst a drill driver combo set will be useful for everyone, it's not advised to buy in the beginning. The shop likely has several sets and a good quality drill could cost more than all the rest of the tools on this list combined. That said, if you decide to buy them anyway, pick a brand you like their whole tool line and stick with it. Most the big tool brands have similar quality, but all different batteries. The batteries will cost more in the long run. I prefer Makita. If I did more plumbing I would go with Rigid or Milwaukee. Nothing wrong with going for Dewalt. Hilti is great but too pricey, unless you plan on doing a ton of masonry work.  
  • Other tools you may be required, only get if required or have the funds when starting
    • Snap ring pliers
      • Used for the installation and removal of snap rings and sometimes e clips.
      • Often have heads at different angles. They come in different pin sizes. Many have interchangeable heads and actions. The actions being if they open inwards or outwards when you squeeze. Some are spring loaded.
    • Files
      • Come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. They shave small amounts of matter off at a time. Some are diamond coated for removed hardened materials. Can also be used to sharpen blades and bits.
      • Come in sets or individually. If you get a single one, make sure to buy a handle to put it in, working with it will be much easier.
    • Punches
      • Used for getting removal and installation of pins. Great for repairing chains. Useful for pushing in the shaft on a spring-loaded drive roller.
      • You can get individually but a set is often better for versatility.
    • Pry bars
      • Used from prying. A must for installation and removal of shafts in tight spaces.
      • Always get a set, you tend to need two at once when installing shafts and rollers. One for getting it in the general area, and the other to fine tune it into its home.
    • Razor knife
      • A knife with detachable razor blades.
      • Depending on your property, you may be given one. Some places consider it a weapon if you walk through the door with it, but a tool if your manager assigns it to you and it doesn't leave property. Security has to do their job too. Definitely ask about the policy on work knives prior to bringing one in.

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